Diary /
No Wrong Turn
Date /
May 14, 2025


No Wrong Turn is the ongoing travel diary of Heather Ouida—KAX senior consultant, former expat, recent empty-nester, true crime podcast enthusiast and proud wearer of compression socks. Here, it’s all about leaning in, letting go, laughing often and making every mile count. You won’t find scathing reviews or endless must-do lists—just real, joyful stories from a life lived a little off-script (and occasionally off the map). Thanks for coming along for the ride.
Quick Heads-Up Before You Dive In: This is not a curated travel guide, a ranking of “must-dos,” or a place for scathing reviews. This is just me—50-something, compression-sock-wearing, cheese-loving, and a recent cancer survivor—writing about the messy, joyful, occasionally chaotic magic of saying yes to more travel. If you're looking for a polished, professional blog with beautifully written destination pieces, may I kindly direct you to KAX’s main site. If you're into the personal side of it all—you’re in the right place.
A few weeks ago, Kyle texted me out of nowhere and asked if I had plans the following week. Now, if you know Kyle, you know that question usually means one of two things: one, you’re about to be invited to something that will probably require a suitcase, and two, it’s likely way more interesting than whatever you already had on your calendar. Dinner plans? Canceled. Yoga? Skipped. Mom’s birthday? (Just kidding, I’m not a monster.)
So I texted back, “Not really, what’s up?” And Kyle goes, “Great. Want to go to Dubai?”
Do I want to go to Dubai!? That’s like asking me if I want a cheese plate after dinner or if I like chocolate. Yes. Always. Immediately.
This trip is what we call a “FAM” in the travel world. That’s short for “familiarization”—industry speak for when a hotel or destination invites advisors to come experience it firsthand, so we can better understand what we’re recommending to our clients. Sounds glamorous, right? It is. But also crucial to making sure our team can speak firsthand to the many destinations we’re suggesting to clients.
This particular FAM was hosted by two gems: Luciana Barbosa from One&Only Resorts and Alp Ozaman from Turkish Airlines—and honestly, it couldn’t have been a more thoughtful, welcoming duo.
Luciana, One&Only’s Director of Sales for the Americas, is one of those people who makes everything look effortless. She's polished and sharp, but also funny, generous, and genuinely kind. The itinerary she put together felt like a perfectly layered playlist—seamless, surprising, and full of moments that made me stop and think, “Wait, this is technically a work trip, right?”
And Alp? A total delight. Representing Turkish Airlines with such warmth and grace, he made every leg of our journey feel smooth and elevated (more on this below).
One of the best part, though? The group. A mix of advisors from all over North America, different backgrounds, varying ages, different vibes—and somehow, it just worked. From day one, it felt less like a work trip and more like a reunion of long-lost college friends who just happened to end up at a five-star resort in the desert. Every time I called home, my husband would ask, “Are you sure this isn’t a retreat with your best friends?” And honestly? I’m still not sure it wasn’t.
Atlantis The Royal - Dubai’s Crown Jewel of Cool
We had the pleasure of staying here for 3 nights
Okay… where do I even begin? Atlantis The Royal is not just a hotel—it’s a moment. I knew it would be over-the-top (it is Dubai, after all), but nothing quite prepares you for the first glimpse. It’s like someone dreamed up the future, dipped it in gold, lit it like a runway, and added private sky pools for good measure.
Everything here says we don’t do subtle. And honestly? I’m here for it.
As many of you know, I’m on a big kick right now about finding little moments of delight—and Atlantis Royal delivers. Yes, the architecture is jaw-dropping. Yes, some suites have sky pools (!!). But also: turndown gifts wrapped like treasure, a gold Arabian box filled with dates, eye gel and lip balm, gold toothbrushes, and full-size amenities that make you want to cancel your plans and turn your bathroom into a spa. Oh, and the slippers. I don’t know who made them, but they’re the softest, cloudiest, most fabulous things I’ve ever put on my feet. I wore them every minute I was in the room.
And the bedding. I ended up in a lovely and very real conversation with Kyp, the GM (truly one of the most delightful people I’ve ever met), about how he personally tested dozens of sheet and duvet combinations before deciding on the perfect hotel bedding. Like, took them home, slept in them, swapped them out, repeated the whole process until he found the ideal combo. As someone deep in the throws of menopause who’s very particular about texture and weight: five stars, Kyp. And as we say in yoga, “how you do anything is how you do everything.” So if this much thought went into the bedding, you can imagine how impressive the rest of the hotel is.
The Rooms
There are no bad rooms here. You either wake up to the Arabian Gulf or the Dubai skyline. I was in one of their standard rooms, which—let me clarify—is only “standard” in the sense that you don’t have a private plunge pool. The design is modern, sleek, and subtly opulent. Marble, everywhere. Plush furniture. A bathroom that’s bigger than most apartments. And the closets? Walk-in palaces.
Traveling with kids? They’ve got connecting rooms, but heads-up: one-bedroom suites have strict child occupancy rules. So if you’ve got older kids, you’ll need to book accordingly.
For those ready to go big, the Signature Suites are next level. Massive terraces. Private plunge pools. Morning dips with coffee and a view of Dubai? Unreal.
Cloud 22 - Dubai’s Most Glamorous Rooftop Pool Party
This is where things get really fun. Cloud 22 sits on the 22nd floor, and it’s part pool club, part fever dream. Picture this: an infinity pool that looks like it drops off into the Dubai skyline, private duplex cabanas that feel like they were made for music videos, and a DJ spinning effortlessly cool tracks. The energy is that perfect blend of laid-back and luxe—you sip your cocktail, soak in the views, and fully embrace the fact that real life? Nowhere near this glamorous.
Ariana’s Persian Kitchen - Saffron, Rosewater, and a Side of Magic
Dinner here was pure magic. Ariana’s Persian Kitchen is absolutely stunning—think traditional Persian elegance with that signature Dubai flair. Grand ceilings, intricate tilework, soft lighting… it felt like dining inside a jewel box.
We tucked into a private dining room, hidden away from the main space, which made it feel even more special. And then the food— this wasn’t just dinner. It was an experience. We started with saffron and rosewater cocktails (I now need one of these to appear in my hand nightly), and then the chef just sent out his favorites. Every bite? A dream.
Ling Ling – Because Why Not End the Night in the Sky?
After dinner one night, we headed up to Ling Ling on the 23rd floor. I’m going to call it: if Las Vegas had a sophisticated older sister who lived in a penthouse and listened to moody house music, it would be this. Plush seating, dramatic lighting, and just enough of a party vibe to make you think, I probably shouldn’t stay out this late… but I definitely will.
At one point, I might have decided I needed to get a closer look at how the bartenders do their thing. And by “closer look,” I mean I tried to go behind the bar. Did they let me? Absolutely not. Did I put in a strong effort? 100%.
Best For:
- Luxury Seekers – If you like your vacations big, bold, and unforgettable, this is for you.
- Design & Architecture Lovers – Every corner is photo-worthy.
- Couples & Honeymooners – It’s giving champagne and plunge pool energy.
- Business Travelers with Taste – Because who says work trips can’t come with marble tubs and deluxe bedding?
- Dubai First-Timers & Regulars – Whether it’s your intro to the city or your fifth time through, Atlantis gives you a whole new lens.
- Families – With some planning around room types, it’s a great luxury family stay and only a short walk/ride from the Atlantis water park
- Food & Beverage Connoisseurs – From Persian elegance to rooftop glam, the culinary game here is strong.
Learn more about Atlantis The Royal.
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Atlantis The Palm Atlantis - Fantasy, Flash, and a Whole Lot of Fun
It had been a hot minute since my husband Jordan, younger son Nicky, and I visited Atlantis The Palm—and, wow. She’s had some work done. Full renovation. Glowing. Giving “my underwater kingdom got a glam squad” energy. Still loud, still bold, and now just a little more polished around the edges.
Imagine if Ariel had a trust fund and a flair for theatrics—then gave her interior designer a blank check. That’s Atlantis. It rises out of the Palm like a coral tiara made of dreams, drama, and a dash of chaos. It’s not subtle. And that’s exactly the point.
Rooms
Even the entry-level rooms are kind of a flex—soft blues, gold details, and balconies with views that’ll have you torn between staring at the city or the sea. And the Underwater Suite? Okay, yes, it’s a little over-the-top. But if you’re a kid, a teenager, or just someone who secretly loves a bit of drama with their bedtime—this is it. Sharks gliding past your window? Come on. It’s like sleeping inside a nature documentary. In a robe.
Aquaventure Waterpark
Let’s talk Aquaventure. Calling it a waterpark feels like calling Versailles a nice backyard. It’s huge. It’s intense. It’s slightly unhinged in the best way.
There’s a mile-long lazy river that suddenly turns into not-so-lazy rapids. Slides that open under your feet and drop you into watery oblivion. The Leap of Faith? A vertical plunge through a tunnel surrounded by sharks. Absolutely not for me, but ten points for concept and nerve.
There’s a kids’ zone that’s basically a water playground dream come true—tiny slides, splash pads, and enough squirty things to keep your mini humans fully occupied. And for those of us who’d rather hydrate than hurl down a tube, there are plenty of shaded lounges and cabanas to make you feel like you’re part of the action without ever leaving your spritz.
Dinner at Studio Frantzén – Elevated Dining with Just the Right Edge
One of the biggest surprises of the trip? Studio Frantzén. Perched inside the Atlantis The Palm, this is the first Middle East outpost from Swedish chef Björn Frantzén—who, for context, has a restaurant in Stockholm that regularly ranks among the best in the world. But don’t let the pedigree scare you off—this place is polished and playful.
The menu pulls from Nordic and Asian influences, but it doesn’t feel fussy or overworked. Just smart. Every dish was interesting without being intimidating—like someone handed your comfort food a passport and a stylist. The langoustine, the grilled cabbage, the beef tartare? I’d go back just for those.
And the space itself? Gorgeous but never trying too hard. Warm lighting, leather banquettes, and a playlist that sounded like someone raided the coolest part of your college CD wallet. You get fine dining and The Rolling Stones. My kind of night.
Best For:
- Families who want the “we did it all” vacation without ever leaving the resort.
- People who like their hotels big, bold, and possibly wearing sequins.
- Anyone who doesn’t flinch at the word theatrical.
- Food lovers, carb lovers, wine-with-lunch lovers.
One&Only The Palm: Dubai’s Most Tranquil Hideaway
Just a seven-minute ride from the wild energy of Atlantis, One&Only The Palm feels like stepping through a portal. Outside: Dubai in full sensory-overload mode—fast cars, bright everything, a thousand things happening at once. Inside? Birds chirping. Actual birds? Hidden speakers? Who’s to say. But either way, it’s quiet. It’s calm. It’s like the hotel is gently whispering, “You’re safe now.”
From the second we walked in, everything slowed down in the best possible way. The lighting alone is worth a love letter. It’s soft, warm, and somehow makes you feel like a better version of yourself. If Atlantis is a high-energy theme park, this is a private island where the dress code is “barefoot, with taste.”
Rooms
Calling them “rooms” honestly feels disrespectful. These are sanctuaries—neutral tones, oversized beds, floor-to-ceiling windows, and terraces that open right onto lush gardens, the pool, or the beach. The Mansions (yes, they’re really called that) are boutique-style villas with private entrances, so you can fully disappear. And the Beachfront Villas? Pools, private beach access, and a layout that makes you feel like you own the place. The whole design is built around light, air, and quiet. It’s dreamy.
The Spa
A total showstopper. The kind of place where your voice automatically drops a few decibels. Every detail is intentional—gorgeous treatment rooms, a serene pool, and an energy that makes you want to stay for hours and maybe move in.
Best For:
- Couples and honeymooners – This is one of the most romantic spots in Dubai.
- Travelers who want total privacy – Small, boutique, and built for low-key luxury.
- Wellness seekers – Everything about the setting and spa is designed to restore.
- Food lovers – Yannick Alléno’s restaurants are a major draw.
- Dubai veterans – If you’ve done the glitz and want the hush, this is your move.
Learn more about One&Only The Palm.
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One&Only Za’abeel: Dubai’s Slickest Stopover
We had the pleasure of staying here for 2 nights
We had two nights here—and honestly? Not nearly enough. One&Only Za’abeel is what happens when a design magazine and an action movie have a very elegant baby. Fifteen minutes from the airport, but it feels like you've landed on another planet. A very good-looking, high-tech, warm-minimalist planet.
From the moment you walk in, it gives full Bond energy. Everything is sleek, moody, and cinematic. I half-expected someone to hand me a martini and a mission brief. The lobby alone could host a fashion show and a chase scene.
The rooms are huge—floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the skyline, Burj Khalifa, or Zabeel Park (and no bad angles). The vibe inside is clean and modern: glossy, layered textures, and just enough gold to whisper “Dubai” without shouting it. Everything’s touch-controlled—lights, blinds, AC. The tech is smarter than I am, but once I stopped arguing with the curtains, it was a dream.
The suites? Pure main-character energy. These are the kind of spaces where you walk in and immediately feel underdressed.
Now, one thing to note: the layout is unique. Getting to the rooms requires a bit of a journey—up to the top, across the lobby, and then down again. It’s layered, and while it adds to the grandeur and flow of the space, it can take a minute to get your bearings. More than once, I found myself in the elevator with other guests trading tips like we were on a scavenger hunt. But once you settle in, it becomes part of the charm—this place really does feel like its own world.
StreetXO: Graffiti, Sushi, and Seriously Good Vibes
If a punk rock sushi bar and a hipster art tunnel had a love child, it would be StreetXO. From the moment you walk in—through the graffiti-lined entrance that feels like you’re about to discover a secret underground club—you know this place isn’t trying to be like anything else. It’s fun. It’s loud. It’s a whole mood.
The menu is small plates, sushi-forward, and full of surprises. Every dish feels curated for people who love food but also want to have a good time eating it. You won’t find any white tablecloths or quiet fine dining energy here—and that’s the point. There’s a kind of joyful chaos in the way the food is plated, served, and shared. It’s refined, but not uptight.
The crowd? Very cool. Think: the kind of people who know the bartender by name but are still happy to talk you into their favorite dish. The energy in the room is buzzy but never forced. You could come here on a date, with friends, or solo and still leave feeling like you were part of something fun.
If you’re looking for a dinner spot that feels modern, unpretentious, and effortlessly cool—this is it. StreetXO isn’t just a restaurant; it’s an experience. And yes, the food really is that good.
Best For:
- Design lovers and trendsetters – This place is sharp. You feel cooler just being here.
- Foodies – Michelin-starred chefs, inventive concepts, and a vibe at every table.
- High-energy travelers – No beachfront naps here—this hotel buzzes.
- Business travelers – Central, stylish, and far from boring.
- Wellness seekers – The Longevity Hub is more than a spa—it’s a whole philosophy.
If you’re connecting through Dubai and want a place that feels fresh, fabulous, and just a little bit futuristic—Za’abeel is it. Just allow a few extra minutes to get where you’re going.
SIRO Dubai: The Wellness Hotel That Means Business (and Burpees)
Dubai isn’t exactly known for subtlety, so it makes perfect sense that its first real wellness hotel would come with full-scale ambition. SIRO Dubai, from the team behind One&Only, is not your average place to detox. It’s like checking into the future of wellness travel—equal parts performance lab, boutique hotel, and Equinox fantasy camp.
Tucked inside the same high-rise as the One&Only Za’abeel, SIRO is a totally different energy. The lobby trades opulence for minimalism—light woods, clean lines, muted neutrals. If Za’abeel is where you wear your best dress and order champagne, SIRO is where you sip green juice in leggings and talk about your VO2 max.
The Rooms
Every detail is built around recovery and optimization. Smart lighting that syncs your circadian rhythm, blackout shades, temperature-controlled beds, air purifiers, and hydration stations. Some rooms even have Peloton bikes and private massage suites. The minibar? Not a vodka tonic in sight—just electrolyte shots, protein bars, and a few things I couldn’t pronounce but assumed were healthy.
It’s sleek, high-tech, and designed for the kind of traveler who tracks their REM sleep and books cryotherapy "for fun." You don’t have to be an athlete to stay here, but you’ll probably leave feeling like one.
The Spa & Amenities
The longevity lounge is included for all guests and has all the good stuff: sauna, steam, cold plunge. It’s like they read your mind after leg day. That said, don’t expect a fully clinical vibe like Clinique La Prairie—it’s more lifestyle-forward than science-heavy.
The crowd? Think: very fit, very focused, and very into it. The locker room was giving LA Equinox sauna realness—20-somethings hydrating, stretching, and prepping for rooftop yoga like it’s a full-time job.
Best For:
- Athletes, fitness lovers, and peak performers – If you think a cold plunge is relaxing, welcome home.
- Business travelers who want to stay sharp – Movement, focus, and calm—on tap.
- Wellness enthusiasts looking for more than a massage – This is where lifestyle meets longevity, without the clinic vibes.
Learn more about SIRO One Za’abeel.
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Bab Al Shams: A Desert Dream Just Outside Dubai
After days of high-rises, infinity pools, and skyline views, stepping into Bab Al Shams feels like a deep exhale. Just an hour from the Dubai airport, this newly renovated desert resort is the definition of contrast—in a good way. Gone are the flashing lights and city buzz. Here, it's all about wide-open skies, earthy tones, and a real sense of place.
Bab Al Shams pulls off something not many hotels in the UAE manage: it feels culturally rich without feeling themed. The design is warm and grounded—think handcrafted details, muted palettes, and textures that make you want to touch everything. The lobby alone sets the tone: elegant, welcoming, and very much rooted in the landscape around it.
The Rooms
The rooms are exactly what you’d hope for in a desert retreat—luxurious but unfussy. Villas and suites offer private plunge pools and open-air terraces, and the desert views make it feel like you’re the only person for miles. It’s quiet in that rare, peaceful way that only the desert can be.
What to Do Here
You’re not popping out for a coffee run—this resort is in the middle of nowhere, in the best possible way. And the activities are designed to make the most of that:
- Camel rides through the dunes
- Falconry and desert safaris
- Sandboarding (for the brave)
- Spa treatments with local ingredients (rose oil, coffee scrubs—yes, please)
- Stargazing, live music, and Bedouin-style dining under the stars
It’s equal parts relaxation and adventure—do everything, or do nothing. Either way, you win.
The On-Site Desert Safari
Yes, it’s hot and sandy. Yes, you should do it anyway. The dune-riding portion is a blast (OK in theory it’s a blast. I opted to go with the group who wanted a “more gentle” ride.). No matter how you get there, the dune photo ops? Unreal. Pro tip: bring a headscarf. Lucina wore one and her photos looked like something off a Vogue desert shoot.
Why Bab Al Shams Makes Sense
This is the perfect follow-up to a city stay. Pair it with a few nights at Atlantis or Za’abeel and you get the best of both worlds—glamorous city energy and quiet desert stillness. And if Dubai’s city vibe isn’t your thing to begin with, you could skip it entirely and just come here for one or two nights of peaceful, sun-soaked luxury.
Best For:
- Cultural travelers looking for authenticity
- Wellness seekers craving quiet and privacy
- Families and adventure lovers who want more than just beach days
- Return travelers ready for a different kind of Dubai
- Anyone who’d pick a camel ride over a nightclub
Learn more about Bab Al Shams.
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Istanbul Layover? Turkish Airlines Might Just Cover Your Hotel Stay
One of the most pleasantly surprising things to come out of our trip? Learning about Turkish Airlines’ Stopover Program—and yes, it’s just as good as it sounds.
Basically, if you’re flying Turkish Airlines and have a long layover in Istanbul, they’ll put you up in a hotel for free. It’s part of a smart, very generous stopover initiative that gives travelers a chance to actually explore Istanbul instead of just sprinting through the airport. And if you know Turkish Airlines, you know they do hospitality really, really well.
We got the full rundown from Alp (who is, without exaggeration, one of the nicest and most helpful airline experts I’ve ever met). He explained that the program is designed to give travelers time to experience Istanbul’s charm, and his team works hard behind the scenes to make it feel seamless.
And speaking of Istanbul—the airport itself deserves its own moment. I went full layover luxury: shopped like I had hours to kill (because I did), got a massage, hit the sauna, and genuinely had a great time. Naturally, I texted a full photo dump to Kyle and my husband Jordan mid-spa, with a caption that said “working hard,” thinking I was hilarious. Not sure they agreed, but I stand by it. If all airports were like this one, I’d stop dreading layovers entirely.
The flight itself? Turkish Airlines Business Class doesn’t have the flashiest or most modern seats compared to some other carriers—think less pod, more open layout—but honestly, the food and service completely made up for it. Each flight has an actual onboard chef (in full uniform), and the dinner was better than a lot of restaurants I’ve been to on land. A beautiful mezze spread, a perfectly cooked steak, and thoughtful little touches throughout the service that made the whole thing feel elevated.
And the best part? The after-dinner chocolates. They were so good I made some offhand comment about wanting to take them home… and my new BFF, the flight attendant, casually slipped me a whole handful with a wink like we were in on some delicious secret.